197 episoder
195. Because You’re Worth Biology: Olivier Rolland Talks Biotech at L’Oréal
21.08.2026 | 1 t. 10 min.Industrial biotechnology has enormous potential to create resilient supply chains, high performance ingredients, and a more sustainable bioeconomy, but good science alone is not enough. In this episode of Grow Everything, Karl and Erum speak with Olivier Rolland about the economic and industrial realities of scaling biology. Drawing on his experience across Michelin, TotalEnergies, Toulouse White Biotechnology, and L’Oréal, Olivier explains why biotech ventures must align sustainability, performance, cost, and customer expectations from the beginning. The conversation explores how techno economic analysis, early process constraints, industrial partnerships, standardization, and supportive policy can reduce risk and move promising molecules from the laboratory into commercial production. Olivier also discusses the biomanufacturing investment gap in Europe, the importance of resilient value chains, the limits of direct fossil replacements, and the opportunity to develop new molecules that deliver the same or better functions by design.
Grow Everything brings the bioeconomy to life. Hosts Karl Schmieder and Erum Azeez Khan share stories and speak with the leaders and innovators using biology to change the world. Biology is the world’s oldest technology, and it can be engineered. So, what are we growing?
Learn more at www.messaginglab.com/groweverything
Chapters:
(00:00:00): Music festivals, Mike Levin, and consciousness at every scale
(00:07:00): Biotech news, Houston biomanufacturing, and the Michelin Guide analogy
(00:14:00): Genome astrology, ingredient transparency, and food regulation
(00:21:00): Olivier Rolland on L’Oréal, Scope 3 emissions, water, and resilient supply chains
(00:28:00): Finding the sweet spot between performance, economics, and sustainability
(00:35:00): Techno economic analysis, retrofit constraints, and industrial partnerships
(00:42:00): Europe’s scale up funding gap and the emerging EU biotech framework
(00:49:00): Coalitions, fragmented value chains, and practical commercialization
(00:56:00): What sustainable aviation fuel teaches beauty about market pull
(01:03:00): Isofunctional molecules, biotech myths, duckweed, and rapid scale up
Links and Resources:
L'Oreal
Advanced Biotech for Sustainability
Ep. 156. When Matter Makes Decisions: Michael Levin on the Intelligence of Form
"What's it like to be a Cucumber" New York Magazine article about Mike Levin
BMS picks Texas for new $2.3B manufacturing campus
Bio-AI is All Atlases and Nowhere to Go by Jake Wintermute and American Wetware
BioInnovations Events - For 25% off use code: Grow Everything
Grow Everything LinkedIn
Topics Covered:
biomanufacturing, industrial biotechnology, sustainable materials, green chemistry, biotechnology commercialization, scope 3 emissions, defossilization, sustainable beauty, bio-based ingredients, bioeconomy
Have a question or comment? Message us here:
Text or Call (804) 505-5553
Instagram / Twitter / LinkedIn / Youtube / Grow Everything
Music by: Nihilore
Production by: Amplafy Media194. Beauty Is in the AI of the Beholder: Debut’s Joshua Britton Turns Claims into Molecules
14.08.2026 | 1 t. 12 min.Joshua Britton, founder and CEO of Debut, joins Erum Azeez Khan and Karl Schmieder to explain why the future of molecular creation belongs to AI and biotechnology. Joshua shares how watching biologists create complex natural molecules in days inspired his shift from traditional chemistry and shaped Debut’s vertically integrated model for discovering, manufacturing, formulating, and commercializing high performance beauty ingredients. The conversation explores why technical breakthroughs alone do not build durable biotech businesses, how consumer demand and measurable performance should guide discovery, and why formulation, supply chains, scientific communication, and brand education are essential to commercialization. Joshua also describes how Debut uses computational models to screen vast chemical spaces, validates promising candidates in the lab, balances fast internal innovation with longer corporate partnerships, and prepares brands for regulatory changes affecting familiar cosmetic ingredients. For founders, scientists, investors, and operators building the bioeconomy, this episode offers a practical playbook for turning biological innovation into products consumers understand, trust, and choose.
Grow Everything brings the bioeconomy to life. Hosts Karl Schmieder and Erum Azeez Khan share stories and speak with the leaders and innovators using biology to change the world. Biology is the world’s oldest technology, and it can be engineered. So, what are we growing?
Learn more at www.messaginglab.com/groweverything
Chapters:
(00:00:00) Biology, beauty, and the battle between performance and chemistry
(00:07:00) Bio dyes, consumer perception, and why color changes experience
(00:14:00) Joshua Britton’s path from organic chemistry to biotechnology
(00:21:00) Why Debut chose vertical integration and consumer led discovery
(00:28:00) Formulation failures that reshaped Debut’s commercial strategy
(00:35:00) Balancing startup speed with global beauty partnerships
(00:42:00) Regulatory pressure and the opportunity for new biological ingredients
(00:49:00) Scientific communication, clinical proof, and brand adoption
(00:56:00) What it takes to move biotechnology into the mass market
(01:02:00) Key lessons on performance, AI, communication, and commercialization
Links and Resources:
Debut Biotech
Dye vs No Dye Doritos Cheetos Taste Test on Youtube
Dye vs No Dye Doritos Cheetos Taste Test on LinkedIn
New imaginary color, "Olo"
BioInnovations Events - For 25% off use code: Grow Everything
Grow Everything LinkedIn
Topics Covered:
biotech beauty, synthetic biology beauty, AI ingredient discovery, biomanufacturing, vertically integrated biotech, beauty innovation, skincare ingredients, cosmetic formulation, consumer biotech, premium skincare
Have a question or comment? Message us here:
Text or Call (804) 505-5553
Instagram / Twitter / LinkedIn / Youtube / Grow Everything
Music by: Nihilore
Production by: Amplafy Media193. The Full Color Spectrum: Nick Milne Ferments One Pathway for Every Color at Octarine Bio
07.08.2026 | 54 min.Nick Milne, founder of Octarine Bio, joins Grow Everything to unpack how biology can reshape the future of color. In this episode, Nick explains why synthetic dyes have dominated textiles for more than a century, why sustainability alone is not enough to drive adoption, and how Octarine is building bio based pigments that can compete on performance, price, and scale. The conversation explores the environmental and human health problems tied to petrochemical dyes, especially azo dyes used in polyester, while showing how precision fermentation can create high strength pigments that work as drop in replacements for existing dye house workflows. Nick also shares how Octarine thinks about scale up, regulatory pressure in Europe, investor expectations, product development, and the practical realities of bringing biotech products into old and highly cost sensitive industries.
Grow Everything brings the bioeconomy to life. Hosts Karl Schmieder and Erum Azeez Khan share stories and speak with the leaders and innovators using biology to change the world. Biology is the world’s oldest technology, and it can be engineered. So, what are we growing?
Learn more at www.messaginglab.com/groweverything
Chapters:
(00:00:00) Nick previews Octarine’s high strength pigment platform
(00:00:23) Karl and Erum open with science policy, AI, biosecurity, and discovery in nature
(00:12:18) Introducing Nick Milne and Octarine Bio’s mission to rewrite color with biology
(00:14:03) Why biology can outperform chemistry in rare but powerful commercial use cases
(00:16:21) The slow shift from petrochemical dyes to bio based alternatives in textiles
(00:18:31) What Pure Palette looks like as a drop in replacement for synthetic dyes
(00:20:13) Octarine’s color pipeline, from purple and black to green, blue, red, and yellow
(00:21:39) How stronger pigments create a path toward price parity for textile customers
(00:28:13) Why European regulation may accelerate sustainable color adoption
(00:31:15) Scale up, consistency, azo dyes, and lessons for biotech founders
Links and Resources:
Octarine Bio
Octarine Bio - PurePalette
Nick Milne LinkedIn
Octarine Bio secures €5M to scale bio-based pigments
Ginkgo Bioworks and Octarine Bio Partnership Achieves Initial Success in Advancing Sustainable Dye Production
Science, A New Golden Age
Kristin Ellis’ Substack commentary on Science, A New Golden Age
Neuromancer Apple TV trailer
A new species of Colobus monkey from the Lomami National Park, Democratic Republic of Congo
BioInnovations Events - For 25% off use code: Grow Everything
Grow Everything LinkedIn
Topics Covered:
Octarine Bio, bio-based pigments, synthetic dye replacement, sustainable textile dyes, fermentation-derived colors, metabolic engineering, azo dye alternatives, textile color sustainability, precision fermentation pigments, sustainable fashion materials
Have a question or comment? Message us here:
Text or Call (804) 505-5553
Instagram / Twitter / LinkedIn / Youtube / Grow Everything
Music by: Nihilore
Production by: Amplafy Media192. Reading Between the Dyes: Roya Aghighi Unlocks Biological Pigments at Lite-1
31.07.2026 | 1 t. 1 min.Have you ever wondered why the color in your clothes can be so harmful to the environment? In this episode of the Grow Everything Podcast, Karl and Erum continue their BioDye series with Roya Aghighi, founder of Lite-1. Roya grew up in her mother’s fashion studio and later worked in the industry testing new materials, but she decided to leave after seeing the pollution caused by traditional dyeing methods. She explains how Lite-1 uses engineered microbes to produce colorful pigments through fermentation, beginning with black, one of the most difficult and damaging colors to make sustainably. Roya also discusses why natural variation in biology can be useful rather than a problem, and why the biggest challenge facing biological dyes may be getting brands and investors to share the risks of developing them. She predicts that color could eventually become an important tool for tracking a garment throughout its life. Before the interview, Karl and Erum also discuss radiation-loving microbes, cuts to pathogen testing, and organisms designed with the help of computers.
Grow Everything brings the bioeconomy to life. Hosts Karl Schmieder and Erum Azeez Khan share stories and speak with the leaders and innovators using biology to change the world. Biology is the world’s oldest technology, and it can be engineered. So, what are we growing?
Learn more at www.messaginglab.com/groweverything
Chapters:
(00:00:00) Biology as a technology and why textile dye is so harmful
(00:05:00) Microbe expeditions, Bikini Atoll, and a Cyclospora outbreak
(00:10:30) Cuts to pathogen monitoring and organisms designed with computers
(00:16:40) Meet Roya Aghighi, from growing up in a fashion studio to founding a biotech company
(00:22:45) How Lite-1 uses fermentation to create a more sustainable black dye
(00:28:30) Why biological variation can be useful information
(00:34:30) Focusing on performance, testing, and regeneration instead of sustainability alone
(00:40:30) The challenges of cost, scale, and shared risk in the biological dye market
(00:47:00) Product standards, traceability, and the next premium opportunity in fashion
(00:52:00) Quick-fire questions and final thoughts from the hosts
Links and Resources:
Lite-1 Bio
Roya Aghighi
177. Dye Another Day (REPLAY): The New Way to Color Textiles with Colorifix's Orr Yarkoni
178. Pretty in Pigments: Jesse Adler Colors the Future with Pitri
180. Fungi in Full Color: Ricky Cassini Reimagines Dye at Michroma
181. Can Hue Believe It? Gerit Tolborg’s Quest for Pure Color at Chromologics
The Next 500 years - Chris Mason
BioAstra
Grow Everything LinkedIn
BioInnovations Events - For 25% off use code: Grow Everything
Topics Covered:
biological dyes, microbial color production, sustainable black dye, textile dye pollution, fermentation-based colorants, bio-based textile dyes, regenerative fashion, traceable garment dyes, synthetic dye alternatives, Lite-1 Bio
Have a question or comment? Message us here:
Text or Call (804) 505-5553
Instagram / Twitter / LinkedIn / Youtube / Grow Everything
Music by: Nihilore
Production by: Amplafy Media191. Beyond the Lab Bench: Karl & Erum on Human Connections as the Ultimate Biotech Moat
24.07.2026 | 1 t. 6 min.With Episode 200 coming up, Karl and Erum switch roles and interview each other the way they usually interview their guests. Karl shares why he decided not to become a doctor, how interviewing bands in college taught him to connect with anyone, and what he learned about storytelling during a decade in public relations before starting Messaging Lab. Erum talks about her unexpected path from studying forensic chemistry and working in pharmaceutical labs to executive coaching, joining a startup accelerator on a ship traveling around the world, and working in energy policy from the Navajo Nation to Brussels. They also discuss what waiting tables taught them about sales and humility, why early-stage startups should sometimes stay quiet until they have real traction, and why strong relationships are something AI cannot replace. Along the way, they revisit favorite moments from past guests, including Vishaal Bhuyan, Casey Lardner, Glennis Mehra, Linnea Fletcher, Elizabeth Hénaff, Phil Morle, Michael Specter, and Sabriya Stukes. Their conversation is a reminder that there is no single path into the bioeconomy.
Grow Everything brings the bioeconomy to life. Hosts Karl Schmieder and Erum Azeez Khan share stories and speak with the leaders and innovators using biology to change the world. Biology is the world’s oldest technology, and it can be engineered. So, what are we growing?
Learn more at www.messaginglab.com/groweverything
Chapters:
(00:00:00) Karl and Erum interview each other ahead of Episode 200
(00:06:45) Erum’s experience building a startup at sea with the Unreasonable Institute
(00:13:30) Genspace’s Break Into Biotech program and lessons from college
(00:19:58) Leaving the pharmaceutical lab for positive psychology and executive coaching
(00:26:40) What working in restaurants teaches about sales, empathy, and humility
(00:33:20) How energy and water policy work with the Navajo Nation shaped Erum’s perspective
(00:40:02) Why staying quiet can be better than making a big launch announcement for an early-stage biotech company
(00:46:31) Michael Specter discusses mistrust in science and the need for greater biology education
(00:53:15) Career changes, layoffs, and staying adaptable in the age of AI
(00:59:58) Advice for their younger selves and quick-fire questions
Links and Resources:
45. Insuring Your Lunch: Aanika’s Vishaal Bhuyan Cracks the Microbial Code of Food Security
139. Cultivating a Culture of Cultures? Genspace's Casey Lardner on Community Biotech
30. Breaking into Biotech: Linnea Fletcher's Inclusive Education and Workforce Upskilling at InnovATEBIO
117. From Lab Coats to CEO Notes: BioLabs' Glennis Mehra on Biotech Business in NYC
104. Unseen Worlds: Exploring Environmental Microbiomes and Their Secrets of Human and Climate Impact with Dr. Elizabeth Henaff
149. Beyond Capital: Phil Morle of Main Sequence Ventures on Collaboration as the New Competitive Edge
44. Spec-Tacular Science: A Chat with Michael Specter on Denying Denialism
39. From Microbe to Unicorn: IndieBio's Sabriya Stukes on the Journey of Biotech Startups
AI Value Pyramid
Grow Everything LinkedIn
BioInnovations Events - For 25% off use code: Grow Everything
Topics Covered:
community biotech, biotech storytelling, biotech founders, biotech communications, life lessons in biotech, biotech careers, science entrepreneurship, biotech media, biotech community building, biotech journey
Have a question or comment? Message us here:
Text or Call (804) 505-5553
Instagram / Twitter / LinkedIn / Youtube / Grow Everything
Music by: Nihilore
Production by: Amplafy Media
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Om Grow Everything Biotech Podcast
Grow Everything explores the world of biology as technology. Hosts Erum Khan and Karl Schmieder interview leaders and influencers biologizing industries with tools like synthetic biology, precision fermentation, bioprospecting, and more. These companies make biomaterials from waste, cosmetics that restore healthy hair and skin, and delicious cultivated foods in a bioreactor and so much more. Join us as we discuss the latest and greatest across biotech, engineered biology, entrepreneurship, and culture and how this transition is solving healthcare and climate change challenges.
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